Summer, Sargassum Seaweed And Climate Change

“A beach is not only a sweep of sand, but shells of sea creatures, the sea glass, the seaweed, the incongruous objects washed up by the ocean.”- Henry Grunwald
When was the last time you visited Hellshire Beach in St. Catherine? Perhaps it has been a year ago or probably 6 months ago. My last visit was somewhere about 8 years ago. Hellshire Beach over the years has deteriorated. There are no changing room facilities, no public bathrooms; all that exists is a wash off area located at the front. These lack of basic amenities has robbed this once sort after relax spot of its pride of place. In all fairness it must be said that there is no cost to access the beach. However, there are two constant variables at Hellshire Beach, one is the high quality escovitch fish and bammy done to order and the other is the numerous hustlers who ply their trade at this oasis in the desert. My beach of choice over the years has been Fort Clarence.  I suspect most people prefer Fort Clarence since there are fewer hustlers on the beach. Additionally, there are lifeguards, at least three on my most recent visit. There is also a minimal entrance fee and the property is managed by the Urban Development Corporation (UDC). One can clearly see the difference between both beaches. There are also public restrooms and changing rooms. I visited Fort Clarence on Saturday, August 17, 2019.Upon arrival I proceeded to pay the security guard. However, he quickly told me that I should enter and look around since the beach is being impacted by seaweed. I was given five minutes to walk around and observe in order to decide whether I would stay or not. I was instructed where to park by the security guard. I then proceeded to see the state of the beach. Three months earlier I took my brother and his wife to Fort Clarence Beach. The same situation was evident, sargasssum was everywhere.  
What Is Sargassum Seaweed?
Sargassum is slimy, brownish seaweed that spends its life floating. Sargassum seaweed starts in the Gulf of Mexico and is pushed by ocean currents into the Northern Atlantic’s Sargasso Sea. It is rather unsightly and serves as a barrier for beach lovers or even the occasion beach goers. No one knows for sure what is causing the sargassum seaweed to reproduce so much. However, one school of thought is climate change and rising ocean temperatures are possible reasons. The invasion of the sargassum seaweed has impacted all of the Caribbean, and Florida even as far as beaches in Mexico. 
The entire Fort Clarence beach was covered in sargassum seaweed. The difference this time and in May was that a number of employees were raking, and bagging the seaweed in black garbage bags. They had an uphill task since the more they raked the seaweed is the more seaweed washed up on the shoreline. I walked around for a few minutes and realized the entire beach was unsuitable for bathing. No one wants to get into water with seaweed all around you and coming in contact with this algae. On my way out I asked one of the lifeguards guards whether Hellshire had seaweed, and he told me no. My sister, nephew and dad and I then left. We took the five minutes drive to Hellshire Beach. Upon arrival we noticed that sargassum seaweed was present much to our disappointment. Immediately, one of the hustlers picked up on our distress and came over and informed us that there was a section of the beach which was seaweed free. Our heart leapt for joy as we eagerly walked along with him, slowing our steps occasionally as dad tried to keep pace. At 85 years God’s mercy towards my dad is evident. The hustler, a middle aged man was correct; we indeed found an area close to some rocks which was inviting. However, I was uncomfortable with the distance from where my car was parked. I have heard too many stories of cars being stolen, so I removed the car and parked it closer to where we were in seaweed free section. After doing this we quickly changed into our swimwear and took turns watching our bags which were placed on some wooden beach chairs. One has to be vigilant regarding one’s belongings as there is no evident security presence. At all times we faced the wooden benches even while in the cooling waters of the Caribbean Sea. As my dad walked to the water, my sister and my nephew held his hand. The waves were very strong and it was a bit difficult for him to navigate, so he sat on the shoreline.
Fried Fish and Festival
The beach experience is incomplete without having fried fish and festival and or bammy.  About 10 to 15 minutes into our beach adventure, a mature lady, maybe in her late 60’s to early 70’s with a few strands of grey hair emerged from the shop located behind us. She invited us to patronize her shop. I asked her what was her name and she said, Miss ShineEye. I told her we would make our purchases from her. After about an hour in the water, which at times had some strong current we went inside to Shop 21. Miss ShineEye, opened the huge blue and white igloo which clearly has been in use for sometime as the handles told could not contain the wear and tear. I asked her how much per pound for the fish. At Fort Clarence Beach the rate was $1,600 per pound. Miss ShineEye quickly answered, “$1,500 per pound” However, she added that steamed fish fetched a high price than fried. I am unsure why this is. The price of the festival, a dough of flour and sugar went for $25 each. My sister selected a Snapper. Miss ShineEye suggested I went with the Parrot fish for my dad, since according to her it’s fleshier, and she was right. The fish was delicious, not overly fried, just right, not too much seasoning, just the right amount. It was an overcast day and as the afternoon went by the area we were at became more crowded. A number of children who were brave enough mounted the horse and rode with the assistance of his handler. A few stray dogs mingled with the patrons as their owner plied his trade on the beach selling floating tubes of various sizes and colours, some were multi-coloured in hues of yellow and blue. The sound of dancehall and reggae music caressed your ears coming from one of the nearby huts; it was not too loud to cause any distraction or nuisance.
Tackling Sargassum Seaweed
It is obvious that there is a clear and present danger regarding the threat from the sargassum seaweed. This menace is not only affecting tourism but it has the chance to impact the livelihood of hundreds of ordinary folks who depend on the beach for their living. If no one goes to the beach there will be no need for lifeguards. The domino effect can be devastated. There needs to be a collaborative effort not only from the Caribbean as a Region but also involving Mexico and the United States of America since the beaches of these regions are being negatively impacted. It appears that much more research is required on the Sargassum Seaweed. There are conflicting theories surrounding the origin of this seaweed. There are too many unknown variables and this only makes more challenging to manage the invasion of the Sargassum Seaweed.  Years ago one could easily find seashells of various sizes at the beach. So many things have changed as the impact of climate change and global warming continues to adversely impact our lives. Notwithstanding we had a wonderful day. My sister Susan and her son Charles had a good day, so too did my dad as I overheard him expressing this sentiment to my sister. For me, the beach provides a necessary escape that nothing else can fill.

Wayne Campbell is an educator and social commentator with an interest in development policies as they affect culture and or gender issues.
waykam@yahoo.com
@WayneCamo
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