The Abstract World Of Fashion

“Fashion should be a form of escapism, and not a form of imprisonment.”- Alexander McQueen The fashion capitals of the world mainly based in Europe and New York are all busy with feverish excitement as their annual runway shows are on in earnest. Fashion is ever evolving and with each generation a new perspective on fashion emerges. Many of us desire to look fashionable or stylish. However, there is a difference between the term fashion and what is considered fashionable. The term fashion is defined by Britannica as the style or styles of clothing and accessories worn at any given time by groups of people. Being fashionable is wearing what is en vogue or trending. The fashion industry is a multibillion-dollar global enterprise devoted to the business of making and selling clothes. According to Oberlo, a dropshipping App in 2014 the global apparel industry totaled $1.54 trillion and is expected to increase to $1.7 trillion in 2023. Some observers distinguish between the fashion industry (which makes “high fashion”) and the apparel industry (which makes ordinary clothes or “mass fashion”). High fashion is usually associated with luxury and expensive designer clothes. Another term used to describe high fashion is Haute Couture. Among the well-known international designers are Calvin Klein, Versace, Tommy Hilfiger, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Armani, Dior, Stella McCartney, Fendi, Givenchy, DKNY, Kanye West and Valentino. Locally, we have dancehall artiste Spice with her clothing line (Graci Noir). The fashion industry is a product of modernity. Prior to the mid-19th century, practically all clothing was handmade for individuals. However, by the beginning of the 20th century clothing became increasingly mass-produced. A number of factors such as the proliferation of new technologies, such as the sewing machine, the rise of global capitalism and the development of the factory system of production, population increase, and the increase of retail outlets such as department stores are responsible for this mass-production of clothes. The fashion industry consists of four levels: the production of raw materials, mainly textiles but also leather and fur; the production of fashion goods by designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others; retail sales; and various forms of advertising and promotion. Many individuals take their cue regarding what is fashionable from popular culture. For example, the music industry, especially the dancehall genre is responsible, to a great extent for how we dress and how we view fashion, more so in the Jamaican and Caribbean contexts. Popular culture can be understood as a set of cultural products, practices, beliefs, and objects dominating society. Popular culture has the ability to influence those individuals who come in contact with it, and also incorporates various elements of a culture from music to dance, movies, literature, and fashion. It encompasses everything that is believed and consumed by the majority of people in any society. Popular culture cuts across socio-economic and political lines. Fashion is not limited to what we wear; fashion is also how we accessorize. In the Caribbean cultural context there is an obsession with the wearing of brands. Our footwear is also part of fashion. Interestingly, other elements of fashion include items of jewellery, and, our perception of our hair make for an interesting mix as it relates to fashion and the fashion industry. The modern man does not shy away from wearing an earring, nose ring, and or bangles which have become quite acceptable in many societies. In fashion, the terms masculinity and femininity have been blurred as cultural penetration continues to challenge traditional perspectives on appropriateness regarding clothing. Undoubtedly, fashion is a form of self-expression and creativity. During the period of enslavement the hair of black women was seen as a form of sexual arousal for the white slave masters. Our hair is synonymous with spiritual power and had a deep sense of cultural awakening. Our hair is a very powerful medium of affirmation and identity. In recent times many Jamaican students have run afoul with the grooming policies of various schools regarding their hairstyles and altered uniforms. One cannot discuss fashion without mentioning denim. It is safe to say that the introduction of denim has revolutionized the fashion industry. May 20, 1873 marked an historic day: the birth of the blue jean. It was on that day that Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis obtained a U.S.A. patent to mass produce jeans. Jeans are considered to be fashionable, flexible and durable. Pop US culture icons like James Dean and Marilyn Monroe made the jeans pants fashionable. Additionally, the international community continues to be fascinated by the annual Oscars, Golden Globe and the Grammy Awards and fashion the Hollywood Stars bring to the red carpet. Over the decades the notion of unisex has become a common feature on the catwalk of European cities such as Paris and Milan in their annual fashion week as men and women clothing have overlapped. Footwear Footwear is a critical aspect of fashion. One cannot be considered fully dressed unless one has the proper footwear to accompany the outfit. Over the years a number of designers of shoes have established a presence in the global footwear industry. American designer Kenneth Cole is well known for his classy men’s shoes. Kenneth Cole Productions, Inc. (KC) manufactures fashionable men's and women's footwear, handbags, and men's sportswear and tailored clothing, as well as offering accessories. The company was founded in 1982. On the other hand, French designer Christan Louboutin is known globally for his iconic red sole women shoes. Louboutin opened his first store in 1992; each pair of shoes was handcrafted in Italy, and then completed with the now-iconic striking scarlet soles. The buzz today regarding shoes is from MSCHF. The Big Red Boots are made by the art collective and design studio MSCHF; this creative house continues to push the boundaries regarding their ingenuity with their red Astro – Boy inspired boots. According to MSCHF co-founder Daniel Greenberg, the big red boots is a realization of a specific sort of cartoonish abstraction of a shoe. YouTuber and Content Creator, Steve Natto was probably the first celebrity to wear the Big Red Boots. It has been documented that since these boots went on sale for $350 they were sold out in minutes. Interestingly, MSCHF was also responsible for the creation of US rapper Lil Nas X controversial Satan Shoes which purportedly were made with human blood. The sneakers hit the market in March 2021 and were sold for $1,018 per pair.

The World of Supermodels Supermodels continue to occupy a very specific place in our culture. These original five supermodels are Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Tatjana Patitz. These women have all the markers of conventional beauty appearing on numerous magazine covers. The five women appeared on the era-defining 1990 British Vogue cover as well as the 1990 music video for Freedom! by George Michael. Sometimes the “big five” includes Claudia Schiffer in place of Tatjana Patitz. London-born Naomi Campbell’s first job was at the age of seven, in the music video for Bob Marley's Is This Love. Naomi is of Jamaican parentage as her mother is Jamaican. Naomi had initially intended to be a dancer, but was scouted by an agent and was on the cover of Elle before she turned sixteen.

Fashion and Gender Despite its reputation as a female-oriented industry, a new study finds that fashion is still dominated by men. The study, titled, “The Glass Runway,” was compiled by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and Glamour with the intention of understanding and resolving the gender equality gap in fashion, and explores how gender impacts the careers of both men and women. Women are the number one consumers in fashion, spending an average of $125,000 on clothing in their lifetime, yet a majority of those at the helm of the fashion industry identify as male. Fashion remains a male-dominated business, wherein women spend 226% more than their male counterparts, but men still hold majority of the power in regards to running the fashion houses. According to a study,” HR managers interviewed admitted they prioritize male candidates over female candidates when interviewing for managerial positions and unmarried women and older women over married women of childbearing age, given candidates are comparably qualified. Gender discrimination runs deep throughout all of the countries in which garments are currently produced. Women are frequently subjected to verbal and physical abuse and sexual harassment. Women also work under the fear of perhaps being assaulted or raped on their way home from work late at night. The most sought after male model is Alton Mason. Mason is a model and dancer who was discovered in 2015 and went on to become the first black male model to walk for Chanel. Born to a former model mother and professional basketball father who played overseas, Mason grew up in a number of countries, including Belgium, Greece and his home base of Arizona, United States, before pursuing a future in acting and dancing at the American Musical Dramatic Arts Academy in Los Angeles, at the age of 17. Mason’s first major modelling gig was for Kanye West’s Yeezy Season 2 collection at New York Fashion Week in February 2016. Mason became the first black male model to walk for the luxury house in its then 108-year history.

Fashion and Music The relationship between music and fashion is a long-standing one, an unsurprising fact given that they are both significant means of creativity and self-expression in our society and culture. Music shapes fashion and vice versa. Throughout the decades fashion has become a close associate of music. Many musicians both alive and dead have their own clothing line. Although Bob Marley died in 1981, his trademark image still appears on his clothing line and his estate continues to benefit financially. An example of how the link between fashion and music was prevalent even centuries ago is 1920s America's 'flappers'. Jazz music was heavily featured in the underground nightclub culture of speakeasies and clubs, and became a subject of controversy. Jazz musicians created the trend of the 'flappers' style, which is typically associated with short dresses and loose clothing, and emerged as a rebellion to the restrictive Victorian fashion that preceded it. Who can forget 2018 when singer and icon Rihanna showed up in a pope like outfit at the Met Gala? The Met Gala is an annual event and serves as a fundraiser for The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume. The event is held in New York City. Rihanna wore a pearl and jewel-encrusted robe, matching papal mitre and necklace, Christian Louboutin heels, hoop earrings by Maria Tash, and jewelry by Cartier. The entire look was designed by Margiela.

Also, in 2018, the Black Panther star Chadwick Boseman turned up in a Versace gold suit along with gold coloured shoes at Met Gala. It has become commonplace for die hearted fans of certain types of music to often wear their favourite genre as much as listening to it, which has resulted in stylistic links between certain genres and the expected attire. The typical heavy metal fan is associated with black boots, leather, and denim. Punk is characterized by shredded clothes and graphic tees. Hip hop and baggy sportswear often go hand in hand. Fashion is art; and just like art fashion is abstract in many instances. The trend surrounding fashion is not static. It is safe to say that any Generation Z member is very much aware that cowboy jeans are trending in the local Jamaican fashion market. Continue to dream. In the words of Donatella Versace, fashion is about dreaming and making other dream. Wayne Campbell is an educator and social commentator with an interest in development policies as they affect culture and or gender issues. waykam@yahoo.com @WayneCamo © #fashion